Pattern: Vogue 8787

Fabric: Blue ponte from Fabricmart

Notes:

I’m not usually drawn to asymmetry.  I generally prefer both sides of my neckline the same, because I fear looking like a kooky artist (even if that’s what I am!)  I really liked this pattern though.  I was going to make the version with the drape neckline, but I decided to try something different.  Happily, I think it turned out well – I really like this dress!

I made a few alterations to the pattern.  Since my ponte was a medium to heavy-weight, I knew that I wouldn’t want to line it.  That was fine, but I had to figure out what to do with the neckline!  I decided to do a bias facing, so I removed most of the seam allowance in order to sew a 1/4 inch seam there.  Because of the way the bodice is constructed (with a seam at the corner of the square) it’s relatively easy to bind the square neckline.  You don’t even have to reinforce/clip the corner because it’s already open!  Just be sure to sew that seam up to 1/4 inch away, but not all the way to the edge.  Here is how mine came out:

After sewing on the bias (and stretching the corner apart to sew a straight seam – similar to a v neck) I pressed the seam towards the facing, rolled the entire facing to the inside, and topstitched 1/4 inch away from the edge.  I then trimmed the leftover facing right next to the facing on the inside.  I’ve done this treatment several times (I’ve made several Vogue patterns that use it.)  It isn’t neat looking on the inside like a traditional bias binding, but it is faster.  And I’ll be honest – if I know the insides will not show, I will worry about it being sturdy, and not really care if the edge still showing.  Ponte doesn’t ravel, so it doesn’t require seam finishing.

I opted for the long sleeves, which wasn’t one of the views with listed yardages.  I ended up using nearly the full 3 yards of fabric I had bought.  Why is that?  Because of the skirt.  It’s very full and heavy, and it takes up lots of fabric to cut properly:

After the dress was mostly completed I let it hang in my closet for a week.  Since the skirt is heavy and has bias pieces, it could have stretched out unevenly.  I didn’t want to have to redo my hem, so I always recommend hanging full skirts for a few days.  Luckily, this one did not stretch out of shape.  I ended up removing 4 inches in length, so that the dress would clear my knees.  It’s a little bit longer than it looks on the package, but not outrageous (I’m 5’8″ tall, if that helps!)

I cut a straight size 8 with no alterations.  I considered taking some width from the underarms, as they are a little loose, but I decided that I valued the comfort of the dress.  I also omitted the center back zipper and cut the pieces on the fold.  It is a little tight to get into, but it’s fine once it’s on, and I’d rather not have a zipper in a knit.

I have not hemmed the sleeves.  I have long arms, and I like where they are now.  I will probably leave them that way.

One final thing to be aware of – you cannot wear a normal bra with this neckline.  I’m wearing a strapless, and I’m fine with that, but it will expose any straps.

Overall I highly recommend this pattern.  I think it’s different enough to be fashionable, but it’s comfy (in a knit) and easy to construct.  I want to go ahead and make that other view – wouldn’t the drape neck look lovely in a black ponte?

Pattern: Simplicity 1777, reprint from 1943.

Fabric: Poly/cotton jacquard

Notes:

I loved this pattern at first sight.  I haven’t made a lot of 1940s patters, and I thought it might be a good choice for me.  I had a few concerns about the  neckline, but I decided to give it a try.

I cut a size 8 on the top, and a 10 on the bottom.

I was expecting the center panel to be irritating to sew together.   It wasn’t really that bad, but it does make for a bit of bulk in that area.  My fabric is medium weight – in a light weight I’m sure it wouldn’t matter.  I opted not to interface the panel, choosing to underline instead.  My interior may not be as neat, but it’s less bulky!

Here is the dress sewn as drafted:

My issues: the skirt has too much volume – because of the deep pleats I needn’t have cut a size larger.  The dress is also too big around the waist and too tight in the arms.  The length is a little long.  The neckline is really high, even for vintage, see:

I went back to the machine and made the following alterations: I removed 4 full inches of ease from the skirt and 2 from the bodice.  I let out the sleeves slightly.  I redrew the neckline.  The new one is about 2 inches lower in center front:

The skirt is much better, and I like the neckline.  The sleeves were still tight, and I had taken too much from the bodice, so I let the bodice back out a little  and let out the sleeves are much as I could.

I sat down to sew the final seams (up until this point it was all basting!) and that’s when tragedy struck!  I was finishing a seam allowance on the serger when my serger managed to grab part of the skirt and cut a nig hole in it with the knife before I could stop it!

I know you can repair a hole with interfacing, but I didn’t think it would look good – it was right in the middle of the back, and it was noticeable.  I decided to just shorten the skirt.  Unfortunately, now it’s too short.  I mean, it’s wearable, but I know I wouldn’t feel comfortable in it.  I don’t really wear skirts that are shorter than 2 inches above the knee.

The neckline is also finished with a strip of the cotton as a bias binding.  I made one New Year’s resolution I didn’t mention, and that’s to stop putting in neck facings unless they are completely sewn down.  In cleaning out my closet this year I noticed that the dresses I didn’t wear all had one thing in common – shoddy facings (is there any other kind?)  I have a few dresses I want to take the facing off and replace with a better method so I can wear them without fear!

I’m going to call this a learning experience, but I didn’t get a wearable garment in the deal.  I doubt I would have gotten one even if the skirt hadn’t gotten eaten.  A few things to note about the pattern:

1. The arms are small and short.  I have long arms, but not that long.  The sleeve length was so short that the sleeve darts ended up in the wrong place, contributing to the tight sleeve issue.  I would cut a size up in the sleeves, possibly even two sizes up.   Maybe that’s just the nature of long sleeved woven dresses?  I’m pretty sure that’s why I don’t make them!

2. There is a lot of bulk at the waist. I would either use a lighter fabric (such as challis) or opt to leave out one of the center panel layers.  The pleats are also bulky, so be sure to trim them down!

3.  The neckline is higher than you think.  Picture the highest neckline you can.  Then add an inch.  Now you might have an idea!  I dislike high necklines because of my irrational belief that it makes you look like your head is on backwards.  I redrew the front only, as I had already sewn the zipper, and I would totally redraw if I made it again.  I didn’t try the v-neck, because it looked like a pretty high cut one, which isn’t better on me.

I’d rate the difficulty on this pattern as medium.  The front piece is a little tricky, and there are a million little darts and pleats.  It’s not hard, but it is time consuming.  I would recommend either a lighter fabric or a stretch woven.  Definitely not a stiff fabric (no idea why the envelope is recommending taffeta!)

Ultimately I think that while I enjoy 40s patterns, they never look as good on me as some other eras.  All the pretty draping and ruching never looks right for some reason, and they don’t have the fuller skirts that I love (I know this is due to WWII era fabric restrictions).   I feel like gathering around a bodice just adds bulk to my waist, and I don’t have an enormous difference between my bust and waist anyway, so I like to emphasize what I have.  This style makes me look a little boxy.  I never think of that when I’m sewing, but occasionally I’ll end up with a garment that makes me look that way.

I did make some fun changes to the hem and neckline, choosing to use a hem band and a bias binding:

Is anyone else with me on the facing hatred?  I think the above finish looks so much neater, even if it does take longer.    I made a 2 inch hem band to finish the bottom, but couldn’t get decent photos.  It’s a good option for when you can’t afford to lose anymore length.

Moving on, I’ve been sewing this dress:

It’s nearly finished, and unlike my sad 1940s dress I really love it!  I will get photos when I can… right now I can only get them on weekends, as I’m in rehearsal or class most nights.

I haven’t been having the greatest of sewing months.  After my failed Juniper pants I made a Alma stop (which I do love,) and then tried to make Vogue 8847:

Now, I know better than to trust a drawing. I knew it would be a sack without the belt (there is a modeled photo which shows this.)  But I wasn’t expecting exactly how terribly large it would be.  I cut the smallest size, but it was enormous.  The chest was way too wide, which made the sleeves bind.  And I don’t like the way the V-neck is constructed.  I ended up throwing it away, which is sad because I loved the fabric, but  I was pretty much set against it at that point.  It might be cute in a knit, but quite frankly life is too short!

I decided to make myself a simple knit project, in order to get over the disappointment.  I chose Butterick 5679, which has the most God awful modeled shot ever:

For real, what is that?  I think it’s just an odd design, but the raglan depth on that top is much longer than the one on my shirt.  And what’s up with the single useless pocket? I was making the version in gold above.  I had a striped wool jersey, and I thought it might be fun to chevron the front and back panels.  It took only a  few hours to construct, even with all the matching.  But in the end I find myself conflicted:

Is this cute in a Dr Seuss kind of way or crazy (in a Dr Seuss way?)

The bottom hemline has to be redone.  You can see how it wants to roll, even though I hemmed and serged.  I’m considering removing the point and making it all one length.  I’m pretty sure I would like that better.  The only kind of strange hemline I like is a peplum – I knew I hated the hems that were longer at the sides, but I thought this would be better.

Maybe I just need to wear a different outfit?  I wore it Monday to voice juries (basically final exams for music students… I listened and judged singers for six hours).  I wore it with skinny black pants and flats, and I did like that better.  These jeans are too big to be skinny, and they twist around my legs (I didn’t make them – blame Gap!)

Eh… I think I just need a few days break (not just from sewing… I am super busy this year, with the new job and responsibilities and my usual December concert schedule!)  I’m having a hard time picking projects to start.  I’m starting to think I’ve got a touch of decision fatigue.  After the semester is over (graduation is the 19th, but I’ve already turned in my grades) I might post here and have you all pick one.

So, not a total win.  But I think it’s important to post my failures along with my successes.  I don’t want to give the impression that I’m perfect, because goodness knows I’m not!

I’m planning a year end roundup post.  I’m hoping to post about the actual wearability of the things I’ve worn (some are definitely more than others!)

Pattern: Alma blouse from Sewaholic patterns

Fabric: Rayon challis and cotton poplin

Notes:

I must confess that I love Peter Pan collars.  I don’t wear them often because I fear looking a bit too twee, but I still adore them!  I knew when I saw the Alma blouse pattern that I wanted to make it, but I didn’t want it to be too adorable.

I bought this fabric from Fabric Mart (now sold out!) and immediately loved the pretty watercolor flowers.  It’s a medium weight challis, which is the weight I would recommend for my version of the blouse.

I actually made two major changes to the pattern:

1. I lengthened the pattern by 4 inches at the hem.  I could tell from other completed projects that this shirt would be too short for me.  I have what could be called a long torso – it’s only now that tunics are in style that I can find shirts in stores that don’t appear cropped!

Sewaholic’s patterns are drafted for the pear shaped.  I measure larger in the hips than the bust, but I’m not a true pear.  I have a short waist and a long torso (according to Trinny and Susannah I’m a skittle, which I believe is a type of bowling pin.  We are indeed separated by a common language, because I had no idea what that was!)

I prefer tops to either be tucked in or hit me at this length.

2. I redrafted the sleeves. I wanted long sleeves for winter, but I don’t like sleeves with cuffs.  Bishop sleeves are in style this year, so I hit on the idea of widening the sleeve.  I basically turned the sleeve piece into an A shape, keeping the same cap shape.  After sewing them in place I folded under 1/2 inch to make a casing and threaded through 1/4″ elastic (it measured 1 inch longer than my wrist.)  I really love them – I think they work really well with my fabric and look elegant!

Pattern review:

I thought the pattern was very well drafted.  It included helpful bits like corners that actually match up, rather than expecting you to match triangles at (for example) the shoulder seams.   The instructions were fine, and the illustrations were clear.

The only issue I ran into was with the collar:

I made the collar with a navy/white pindot poplin.  It’s fairly light weight though not as light as the challis.  I thought it would hold the shape better and it does.  The pattern calls for interfacing the collar, which I did, using a lightweight fusible (pro sheer elegance.)

The interior is finished with a facing, and that’s the only place where I had trouble.  I don’t, as a rule, like facings.  I leave them off whenever I can, but in this case I chose to use the facing pieces.  You interface the facing pieces and then sew them together.  Here is where it was a little confusing – you must baste the collar to the neckline with both RS facing you.  Then you put the facing on top of the collar and blouse, RS together, and sew.  You’re supposed to then trim, clip and understitch.  I did all that, but I’m still not happy with the facing.  It makes for a lot of layers around the neckline, and even though I secured it to the shoulders it tends to stick out when I put on the blouse.  Once it’s on they stay in place, but I think there’s probably another way of securing the collar that I would prefer.    Suggestions are welcome!

I made a size 4.  I wanted it a little oversized, but I would go down a size if making a more fitted version.  I love the shaped darts (even though I always hate sewing them!)
I love this blouse!  I would absolutely recommend the pattern.  I will probably make it again someday!  This is the first Sewaholic pattern I’ve tried, and I was very impressed with how professional everything was.  I’ve already ordered her new pattern, the Cordova jacket.  It has a peplum, another trend that I am not yet over!

Pattern: Vogue 8815

Fabric: Leopard double knit (ribbed, sweater like) from fabric mart.  There are 9 yards left as I write this.

Notes:

When I was a little girl I used to spend hours  designing pretty dresses for my dolls to wear.  And since this was the 80s, nearly every one of them contained some variation of the peplum.  Apparently I’ve never lost my fondness for the silhouette, because I’m pretty much super excited about the current peplum revival!

I didn’t buy Vogue 8815 right away.  I didn’t like the crew neckline (they make me feel like I’m choking!) and I thought the peplum was skimpy.  But when I wanted to make a sweatery peplum, I decided I could alter the pattern for my purposes and brought it home with me.

First order of business: making the peplum larger and longer.  I specifically wanted to wear it with these skinny jeans, which were made by a designer with a vendetta against stretch fabric.  Since they don’t stretch, I like to wear longer tops with them, as the top view isn’t the best.  I added a wedge to each peplum piece, adding 6″ total to the circumference before I lengthened it.  Then I added 5 inches in length to the peplum (I wasn’t sure I would keep it all, but I wanted to make sure I had enough.  The result?  A lot of peplum!

It is not, I suppose, exactly slimming.  But I find that I don’t much care about that, so unless strangers start asking me when I’m due (note: probably never) then I’ll enjoy the exaggerated silhouette!

I also had to address the neckline.  I took out Butterick 5562 (OOP) and traced off the boatneck.  It basically sits right on my collarbone, so it requires either a camisole or strapless bra, but I’m fine with that.  I finished the neckline with a strip of the fabric (not bias, as this was a knit.)

I actually had to cut the bodice twice, as the first time I had a serger accident.  Luckily I had extra fabric!  I shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length and removed the shoulder dart before cutting:

After sewing and basting I removed an additional inch from under the arms because I wanted a fitted sleeve.  It looks off in the photo above, but that’s just because I had been moving my hair right before the photo and forgot to readjust.  The shoulders are still just a little bit wide for me – you can see how they extend onto my arm a bit.  I suspect the design is meant to be this way, but if I made it again I would narrow them.

I’m pretty happy with my peplum top, though I’m not sure it resembles the original pattern anymore.  I would recommend this as a good basic!

Pattern: Vogue 8827

Fabric: Polyester Peachskin, 3 yards

Notions: Grosgrain ribbon (for ties

Notes:

This was not a fun project at all, but I must admit that I love the results!  8827 was my initial favorite from the fall vogue patterns – I like the loose silhouette and the asymmetrical drape.  It looked very modern, and I immediately pegged the long version as a great informal recital dress.  I’m going on tour again this spring (in Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic and Slovakia) and I need dresses that look elegant but will not wrinkle.  To that end I picked up a polyester peachskin.

Peachskin isn’t exactly fun to sew, but it is better than most polyester fabrics IMO.  My advice for sewing peachskin:

1. Use a Microtex needle (to avoid skipped stitches)

2. Pin Sparingly (because pin marks are permanent!)  

3. Best for drapey styles (does not really hold a crease).

4. It will pucker when you sew, but it goes away with ironing (use steam!) Works better with the serger.

5.  Attracts static like mad!

I constructed most of the dress on my serger.  As I said above, the fabric puckers, but I had no issue pressing that out.  I had a little more trouble on the seams that had to be sewn on the machine.

I had issues with the pattern.  It’s fairly well drafted, but the instructions are a bit nonsensical.  I would not recommend, no matter what it says, making this from a jersey – there is a lot of hand sewing and pressing that will not work!  I topstitched the front edges to attempt to keep them in place – between that, the belt, and being caught in the hem they stay well.  The pattern wants you to slip stitch them to the dress, which might work on the short version, but there’s no way it wouldn’t pull at this length and weight.  I removed a good 2.5″ of ease from the sleeve caps (peachskin does not ease, nope.)  My belt is quite a bit longer than called for – I wrapped it twice and tied in the front like an obi.  This keeps it secure without the need for a closure on the outside (the insides are closed with a piece of ribbon sewn to the seam allowances.

You can see that it has a little static issue above – it’s better with tights.  It seems to be a time of conquering fears – both this and my coat contain my biggest sewing issue, the inset corner.  I found this video from threads and want to try it, but I can’t buy cotton organdy locally.  I will have to get some and try it out!  This time I managed, but it isn’t the best looking collar ever.

I do recommend the pattern, because I love the style, but it’s probably good to be forewarned that the directions aren’t the greatest.  I’m very excited to wear this to sing!