Category: crafts

crafts · finished objects · Sewing

The Adrienne Blouse

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Pattern: Adrienne Blouse from Friday pattern Company

Fabric: printed dot jersey from Joann’s

Notes: This is the fourth pattern that I’ve made from Friday pattern company. They’re one of my favorite indies. They usually have good tutorials and instructions, and the styles appeal to me. They do have some drafting idiosyncrasies – two are a short torso length and rather square shoulders. Part of the appeal of making multiple patterns from one company is, for me, that you get to know the block they use and what your alterations are. I use a lot of big 4 patterns, and I generally know how to alter those to fit me without a muslin – not necessarily so for a new company!

When I printed this pattern out I was surprised to see that it’s really only three pieces – front/back, sleeves, and neckband. I’ve seen a lot of controversy about how patterns that are aimed at knits can differ from wovens. For instance, a symmetrical sleevecap is not generally desirable in a woven because we are not shaped symmetrically. But in a knit, that doesn’t really bother me. What does bother me, I’ve discovered, is using one piece for front and back.

I wear either a 34 D or 36 C bra (these are sister sizes, with the same size cup and differing bands.) I don’t usually need to make a Full bust adjustment to most patterns because my upper bust measurement is only an inch or two larger than my full bust. That’s an important distinction to understand. When we make a FBA, we are choosing a size that fits our shoulders and adding room for the bust. In my case, my shoulders and bust generally fit into the same size. I know, it’s a little odd, but sewing cup sizes are not the same as bra cup sizes.

That’s all a long way of saying that I feel this pattern basically needs an FBA if you have any chest fullness at all. If your knit isn’t super stretchy it will be even worse. This isn’t a negative comment necessarily, and the pattern does include instructions for doing an fba, but I do think it would be a better pattern with separate front and back pieces. I did not do one, and while it fits my dressform above it’s clingy on me:

While my dressform and I have the same circumference, my bust is more projected. I don’t use it to fit on though, it’s mostly there to hold WIPs and take photos.

Other than the bust, I did think the pattern was solid. The sleeves are lovely, and I had no issues with the neckband width. I reduced the elastic length at the wrists and added two inches in length to the body, but otherwise it’s straight out of the package. My size is a medium, which I blended out to an xl for the waist. In my opinion it needed the length to be tucked in, but ymmv.

I’m currently working on a Simplicity pattern for wovens that is very similar. When I’m finished I will post my thoughts on the style!

crafts · finished objects · Sewing

My top makes of 2021

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Happy 2022 to you all! I’m sorry that I’ve not always been amazing at posting my favorite makes on here, but I have been sewing!

I am so glad that I started sewing again in 2021, even though at first it seemed that I had forgotten everything I knew before. It was humbling to start again, and invigorating to see all the new sewists who have taken up the craft! It eventually came back, and I’m looking forward to a productive new year of sewing. I’d like to sew a real blazer, and maybe explore pants making a bit more. And of course I’m going to end up making lots and lots of dresses, since that’s mostly what I wear!

One of my resolutions was to do a better job of keeping up this space, so look for more content here, and hopefully a move to self-host this blog in the future.

Over Christmas break, my wonderful boyfriend got me started on a YouTube channel about sewing. Since I don’t actually have anyone to talk to in my real life about crafting, I’m looking forward to using that space to give updates. I’d also like to do a few sew-a-longs, as that’s something that has helped me tremendously from other channels!

If you’d like to see my top garments from last year, please take a look at this video:

I hope you enjoy listening to me go on about my favorite things!

I’ll be back in this space soon with some new pattern reviews – I just made a killer Burda pattern that I can’t wait to talk about! In the meantime, here is a preview of how it turned out:

crafts · Life · Sewing

A Wardrobe from Scratch

stitchywitch5 Comments

Hi there! You may have noticed that I’ve decided to revive my blog after a very long hiatus! I’ve had lots of life changes – new job, new city, new everything pretty much. I’m loving my life living in downtown Cincinnati. I live right next to a big city park in a neighborhood where there’s always something to do!

I took a really long break from sewing clothes. I have a very small apartment, and only recently got my sewing space set up (and it’s still in my kitchen, but I’m making it work!) And then Covid happened, so I pretty much only sewed masks. With things opening back up again in Ohio I realized that I had basically two pairs of pants and only three dresses in my wardrobe.

I got online and started reconnecting with the online sewing community. Wow – it’s changed so much while I was away! When I was last sewing there were only a few Indies, and now they are everywhere! There are also more independent shops to buy fabric from, which is great because my local selection isn’t amazing. I’m so inspired by the community on social media (you can find me on Instagram as Stitchywitchcreates) and blogs.

So here I am – ready to sew my way to a new wardrobe again! I’m going to use this space to document my plans and my sewing discoveries as I go along. I’d also like to make a quilt perhaps and knit some cardigans. Mostly I’d like to be engaged in the act of creating. My job is creative, but in my downtime I really need to create something tangible. It’s been way too long since I’ve felt engaged in the art of making something for its own sake.

So to start? A pair of culottes.

I bought some tencel twill from an Etsy shop in a deep navy. The price was good, but the edges of the fabric look like it was cut off the bolt with hedgeclippers – I would definitely not recommend. The fabric is nice though, with a great drape. I cut up a rtw top from my closet for pocket fabric, as I didn’t have enough of the main if I wanted to make view B (the medium length above.) I’ve never been one for making a ton of separates, but they are greatly needed in my wardrobe – here’s hoping they fit well!

I cut the waistband in between the size 14 and 16, then graded down to a 12 for the hips. I know the pattern says to just choose off waist size, but I was really worried about them being huge everywhere else. The fabric has a few strange marks on it, so I’m going to consider this a (hopefully!) wearable muslin.

crafts · finished objects · Sewing

When life gives you… You know.

stitchywitch3 Comments

I finished another new dress! I’m so enjoying working on new makes these days. This one cheers me up just looking at the fabric, so that’s a win in my book!

Pattern: Glenelly top and dress from Itch to Stitch.

Fabric: Knit blend from JoAnn’s

Notes: It’s been years since I sewed anything using a knit fabric, but when I saw this pattern I knew immediately that I had the perfect fabric!

I cut a straight size eight, which matched my measurements. After completing the dress, I feel that I probably should have sized down for the waist. The shoulders were a pretty good fit. I used the standard sized pieces and have a C cup bust.

The instructions were very clear. I didn’t follow all of them, but I think they were solid. I opted not to stabilize the corners of the neckline with interfacing, and as you can see it turned out fine.

I also didn’t stabilize the waist with stay tape, though I did use clear elastic. The waist is pretty loose, and is definitely the main thing I would change if I sewed this again.

I took two inches off the hem to get the length I wanted.

Overall this turned out very cute, and it was easy to sew! I liked that the pattern told you what seams would be best to serge and where to use a narrow zigzag. I definitely plan to give the top a try!

crafts · finished objects · Sewing

The Trillium dress

stitchywitch4 Comments

It’s certainly been a minute! While I was away from the blog I got a new job, moved to Ohio, and got a new cat. All good things, and I can promise many photos of the cat. Lately I’ve been sewing again, and missed sharing what I’ve made.

Pattern: the Trillium Dress (formerly washi)

Designer: Made by Rae

Fabric: Anchor print cotton voile, Gertie for JoAnn several years ago.

Notes: I’ve owned this pattern for an embarrassing amount of time. I love a good empire waist, but the ruching intimidated me!

I’ve made a commitment to get back to some of my creative hobbies, so when I dug this fabric out of storage I knew what I wanted to make.

I cut a size small with the C cup bodice pieces. My waist measurement is larger than that size, but I figured it wouldn’t matter with the elastic. I was right about that.

The directions for this dress are excellent, very clear. When I got to the waist, I took a deep breath and watched YouTube videos. I ended up having to adjust my bobbin case tension, which was scary, but it worked out in the end!

I ran out of fabric and had to turn and stitch the armhole seam allowances. It’s not as neat as I would like, but it’s not noticeable.

If I made this again I would lower the bust darts by an inch or so – they are pretty high on me, and I am a 34 c bra. I’d also probably use bias binding instead of the facing option on the neck and armholes for a cleaner finish. But it fits well, and I got lots of compliments when I wore it to church last week – I see another of these (maybe in a solid linen?) in my future!

I’m hoping to post here more, but if you’re interested you can follow me on Instagram (in the sidebar or search for stitchywitchcreates.

And as promised, the cat photos! His name is Bones, and he is so spoiled! Here he is enjoying some nice fresh laundry.

crafts · finished objects

McCall’s 6750 : nope

stitchywitch11 Comments

Pattern: McCall 6750

Sizing: I made a 10 blending to a 12 at the hips, then had to add an inch at the end.  Pattern runs small in the hips.  My measurements are 33-28-38

Fabric: Liberty tana lawn, 1 yard and a mystery poplin used as sew in interfacing on the fronts.

Notes:

I recently found myself with a single yard of tana lawn.  It was a gift, and I would not have chosen this pattern/colorway myself, but I wanted to try it out.  I knew I wanted to make a shirt, but with only one yard to work with I had to get creative.  I ended up choosing this pattern, a Palmer/Pletsch design, because A. I could cut everything except interfacing from the single yard and B. I already owned it.  I liked the idea of a lightweight buttondown for summer, and imagined myself wearing it to picnics (I hate picnics, but never mind…. that was my mental image!)

I do not think I will ever wear this shirt.  There are a number of issues I had with the pattern drafting/ fit.  First of all, that collar.  It’s insane, right?  It’s definitely serving up 1970s collar realness!  I probably could have cut it down, but it was hard to imagine before sewing.  It might be ok with sleeves, but it’s ridiculous without.  It’s also strange because of the back:

As you can see, there is no back collar.  The fronts simply fold over.  I used a fairly crisp interfacing, and I edge stitched the whole thing in an attempt to make it look less homemade, but in the slightest bit of wind the collar will blow together.

The next issue is the buttonband:

The shirt only calls for 4 1/2 inch buttons.  I feel that is insufficient, causing the rippling effect above.  The facings are also extremely wide, and they do not want to stay in place.  Note that the collar looks strange here – it’s just not possible to get it to lay gracefully on a human body, which is not as regular as a dressform.

I used a bias binding on the armholes rather than facings.  I think this was a good choice, because the armholes are huge even after I removed 1/2 inch from each.  The binding does show when I wear it, if I ever move my arms.  This is not my finest binding job, because I did it last and I kind of knew it was a wash.

Finally, the back:

It’s wrinkled here because I had worn it for a few hours.  I don’t know if you can tell from the dressform, but this pattern is very wide at center back.  I think that might be part of the issue with the collar.  I would eliminate the shoulder darts entirely, and probably narrow the whole piece.  I actually have a broad back, so I think this is strange.  At most, I occasionally remove darts that are meant to compensate for a rounded back, as I don’t have one.

There are 12 darts in this shirt, but I think it could have fit better with less.  I don’t know, there’s just something really off about the draft.  And I know, it does come with extensive instructions on tissue fitting and alterations, but the basic pattern should be better.  I also don’t like tissue fitting.  I’ve done it, but I’ve never felt it told me much of anything, so this time I just blended sizes and went for it.

I’m not upset about the fabric, since it’s not the best color on me anyway, but I am disappointed in the lost time.

One thing I did learn: be sure to use a short stitch length (1.8-2.00) on Tana lawn, or you will get oddness.

Oh well – these things happen!  On to something different, maybe a nice blouse with no buttons?

crafts · finished objects

Pattern review: Colette Patterns Hawthorn dress

stitchywitch13 Comments

Pattern: Colette Hawthorn

Fabric: Rayon/linen blend from Joann’s

Size: I cut a 6 in the bodice, graded to a 10 at the waist.  I should have cut at least a size smaller.  My measurements are 33-28-39.

Notes:

It’s been a long time since I made a Colette pattern!  I made a small bust adjustment of 1/2 inch on the bodice.  I did not make any other adjustments to the pattern.  I did blend a 6 on top to a 10 in the waist.  As it turns out, that was too big, and I should have probably made  a 4 and a 8.  I’m always worried about things being too small, and inevitably cut a size larger.  I took it in at the side seams, but I think it could use another inch at least.

I used a hong kong seam finish on the entire facing, and I finished the hem and armholes with contrasting bias.  I made the bias of some random quilting cotton in my stash.

I like the contrast, and the hem band makes the skirt hold its shape.  It also looks much neater on the top facing:

I think I’m going to buy an edge stitching foot – that collar stitching is just not as neat as I would prefer.

Conclusion:

I think this is a great pattern. It came together easily, and it fits pretty well with only a SBA.  I would make a few adjustments if I make it again.  I would cut a smaller size, and I would raise the waist by at least an inch.  I can’t wear a belt with this dress because the waist is so far below my natural waist.  If you are shortwaisted like me, that’s something to watch for.  It’s also perhaps a little big in the back – I don’t think I need the back darts to be quite so full.    I did not make a muslin, because I don’t have the patience right now, but it still turned out well.  As always, I’d recommend sewing the side seams last in order to fine tune the fit.  That’s saved me on a number of occasions!

The pattern instructions were generally good.    I used sew-in interfacing, and while there are a lot of layers at the collar I was able to trim.  I used a clapper with lots of steam to get the seams flat, and then at the very end I sewed the collar to the dress at the shoulder seams to prevent rolling.  This is not in the instructions, but I would recommend doing this step.

So, overall I recommend this pattern, and I may make the sleeved version come fall!

crafts · Sewing

Vogue 9005

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Pattern: Vogue 9005, view A

Size: XS in the shoulders, medium at hips (for reference, my measurements are: 33-28-38)

Fabric: Lightweight rayon jersey from Fabric Mart

Alterations: I lengthened the tank portion only by 2 inches, and I reduced the armhole depth by 2 inches in order to combat stretching.

General Notes:

I always seem to be attracted to the strange tops.   Although I am perfectly aware that this looks a little bit like I’m carrying around a spare napkin, I love the style anyway!  I’ve been wearing more pants this year, particularly skinny jeans, and because I’m both pear shaped and have a long torso I have a hard time buying tops that are long enough and which fit in both the shoulders and hips.  Plus, as I mentioned, I like weird, arty, drapey things, which aren’t always in abundance in stores. I was attracted to this design right away, and I have an abundance of knit fabric, so I knew I had to make it!

Pattern instructions for knits don’t always make sense, as they are often written as though the fabric were woven.  This one wasn’t bad, really, although the tank does have darts, and I don’t like darts in a t-shirt.  The binding instructions were a little crazy – I opted to edgestitch my binding from the front and then trim it close in the back – you can’t tell, and bindings on knits are a pain.

The pattern piece for the drape is enormous, and I had to cut it on the floor.  It was actually rather simple to construct, although the directions had to resort to saying things like “sew as in drawing” when it was hard to explain.  All you are doing it creating the top and drape separately, and then binding them together at the armhole and neckline.  I didn’t copy the matching symbols because my fabric would not mark, and it worked out fine.

The drape, as you can see, hangs freely:

I had to shorten the armholes by 2 inches due to the weight of all that fabric.  The neckline is also rather deep, although I don’t have much cleavage so it works ok for me.  Anyone larger would probably want to adjust that.  I did lengthen the tank by 2 inches, and I did not hem anything.  I do wish that the bottom edge of the tank could be hemmed easily, but this fabric doesn’t take hemming well.

The drape continues onto the back:

As you can see, it tends to hang off to the side.  That’s ok, but I don’t think the back view on this pattern is the greatest ever.

I think this is an interesting pattern, and it was simple to make – I recommend it!

 

crafts · finished objects · Sewing

Simplicity 1614: stripes!

stitchywitch16 Comments

Simplicity 1614

Pattern: Simplicity 1614

Fabric: Rayon Challis (ebay purchase)

Notes:

I am seeing this high/low hem tops everywhere this season.  I made one last year, which didn’t turn out so well.  I didn’t like how much longer that top was in the back – I prefer the more gentle rounded hem of this pattern.  I also think rayon challis is a much better choice, as it allows the pattern to drape naturally.

Because my torso is incredibly long, I haven’t found any hi-lo tanks in the stores that fit me.  They all cut off in the front at precisely the widest part of my hips, and I don’t find that flattering on me.  I knew I would have to lengthen this top, so I added 3 inches in cutting.  I was worried that was too much, but it turned out to be just right!

I should probably mention that you won’t find this version of the top (rounded hem in with the front all one piece) in the pattern.  This version is cut in stripes on the front, but I taped the pieces together in order to have only one seam (the bust line, which is on all versions.)

I was really excited to use my striped fabric – I’ve had it for ages, but it was too overwhelming for a dress.  Imagine my dismay when I realized that the piece was actually vertical stripes!  No matter, I cut on the cross grain.  In fact, in order to get the stripes to line up I had to cut the yoke entirely off grain.  Luckily, that doesn’t seem to have caused any issues, but I’m sure it would in a more fitted top.

I cut a straight size 8, and I did not make any sizing adjustments (except the length) but for one.  I made the view with the single back strap, but after carefully assembling the straps I realized that the strap was really wide on me – several inches too wide!  Because it was already sewn into the seams, I ended up just folding under part of the strap and securing it under the armholes.  It’s invisible in this fabric!  I took out 2.5″ inches overall.  I probably have a narrow back:

IMG_2982

I am exceedingly proud of the back seam matching – I can’t even see it, can you?

On the subject of the pattern – it was generally pretty good, though I had one issue.  The pattern has you staystitch the neckline, but unfortunately the front neckline has a 3/8″ seam allowance, which isn’t marked.  Be sure to keep in to a quarter inch or it will show and have to be removed!

I think the pattern wanted a hidden bias finish, but I wasn’t thrilled with that on the neck.  The armholes have visible black binding, much neater imo!

In all, a very successful top.  I’m not done with tops for the summer, but I need to pause to make dresses for a few events I have coming up… look for that soon!

IMG_2999fix

crafts · finished objects · Sewing

Vogue 8856

stitchywitch14 Comments

Vogue 8856

Pattern: Vogue 8856

Fabric: Bamboo jersey from fabric mart

Notes:

I always wonder how companies choose the view they will sew for the pattern envelope.  In the case of Vogue 8866, they chose the simpler version (you can see it in the link above.)  If I hadn’t clicked through to look at the illustrations I would have never known about this version, and I would never have bought it for the plain t-shirt view.

I loved the skirted version.  Yes, ok, it looks a little like a dance costume, but so what?  I love dance costumes!  In fact, this particularly reminds me of a green number I wore while doing a dance to “The Sign” by Ace of Base.  Yes, it was probably twice as dorky as you are imagining in your head.

I was worried about sewing this up because of all the sharp angles.  Usually those are a pain to sew, but not here!  I was really impressed with the drafting.  Everything fit together perfectly, which is not always the case!  If you’ve never sewn something like this before the instructions might be a little vague (I think there were places that needed to be cut to the corner that were not listed in the instructions, but I’ve made enough of these to do it automatically.)

I think the style is very flattering.  It’s long enough to wear with leggings, almost long enough to be a minidress (I did not add any length to this one!)  I’m not really an enormous fan of cut on cowl necklines because I think they make me look a little top heavy, and this is no exception, but I still really like it.  If I made it again I would turn the cowl into a boatneck, because that’s a better neckline when you (like me) have little difference in size between your bust and waist

Let’s talk fabric choice:  I actually think this would be nicer in a more stable knit.  I used a medium weight bamboo jersey because it’s what I had, and I didn’t want to buy any new knits before using some up.  Bamboo jersey is heavy and stretchy.  I stabilized the shoulder seams, but it does still stretch out (especially in the back – the skirt is heavy!)  I think a ponte would work, or an interlock.  On the right hand side you can see the waist of my leggings through the knit, which is one of my pet peeves.  I will have to think carefully on what I wear underneath.

I did not hem the skirt, which I think it best for this style. I hemmed the neckline and armholes with a baby hem, as suggested in the pattern, but I think a bound finish might help to stabilize those edges even further (clear elastic can only do so much!)

I’m on a roll with tops – I have one more to complete this week!  I’m trying to get in my summer sewing this month, because I know when classes start in June I will have less time.
vogue 8856