Pattern: McCall 6750
Sizing: I made a 10 blending to a 12 at the hips, then had to add an inch at the end. Pattern runs small in the hips. My measurements are 33-28-38
Fabric: Liberty tana lawn, 1 yard and a mystery poplin used as sew in interfacing on the fronts.
I recently found myself with a single yard of tana lawn. It was a gift, and I would not have chosen this pattern/colorway myself, but I wanted to try it out. I knew I wanted to make a shirt, but with only one yard to work with I had to get creative. I ended up choosing this pattern, a Palmer/Pletsch design, because A. I could cut everything except interfacing from the single yard and B. I already owned it. I liked the idea of a lightweight buttondown for summer, and imagined myself wearing it to picnics (I hate picnics, but never mind…. that was my mental image!)
I do not think I will ever wear this shirt. There are a number of issues I had with the pattern drafting/ fit. First of all, that collar. It’s insane, right? It’s definitely serving up 1970s collar realness! I probably could have cut it down, but it was hard to imagine before sewing. It might be ok with sleeves, but it’s ridiculous without. It’s also strange because of the back:
As you can see, there is no back collar. The fronts simply fold over. I used a fairly crisp interfacing, and I edge stitched the whole thing in an attempt to make it look less homemade, but in the slightest bit of wind the collar will blow together.
The next issue is the buttonband:
The shirt only calls for 4 1/2 inch buttons. I feel that is insufficient, causing the rippling effect above. The facings are also extremely wide, and they do not want to stay in place. Note that the collar looks strange here – it’s just not possible to get it to lay gracefully on a human body, which is not as regular as a dressform.
I used a bias binding on the armholes rather than facings. I think this was a good choice, because the armholes are huge even after I removed 1/2 inch from each. The binding does show when I wear it, if I ever move my arms. This is not my finest binding job, because I did it last and I kind of knew it was a wash.
Finally, the back:
It’s wrinkled here because I had worn it for a few hours. I don’t know if you can tell from the dressform, but this pattern is very wide at center back. I think that might be part of the issue with the collar. I would eliminate the shoulder darts entirely, and probably narrow the whole piece. I actually have a broad back, so I think this is strange. At most, I occasionally remove darts that are meant to compensate for a rounded back, as I don’t have one.
There are 12 darts in this shirt, but I think it could have fit better with less. I don’t know, there’s just something really off about the draft. And I know, it does come with extensive instructions on tissue fitting and alterations, but the basic pattern should be better. I also don’t like tissue fitting. I’ve done it, but I’ve never felt it told me much of anything, so this time I just blended sizes and went for it.
I’m not upset about the fabric, since it’s not the best color on me anyway, but I am disappointed in the lost time.
One thing I did learn: be sure to use a short stitch length (1.8-2.00) on Tana lawn, or you will get oddness.
Oh well – these things happen! On to something different, maybe a nice blouse with no buttons?
11 thoughts on “McCall’s 6750 : nope”
Thank you for your thorough review of the pattern and fabric – I like Tana lawn.. 12 darts!! that’s way too many…
I had issues with that pattern myself. I didn’t even get so far as cutting anything out. It just looked….odd
I will second all of your comments. I wanted to like this pattern but after completing a wearable muslin of view B (3/4 sleeves), it’s just awkward. The collar just doesn’t stay put, all those darts don’t improve the fit, and it seems to look perpetually rumpled. It’s on the way into the donation bag lurking in the hallway. Just glad I didn’t use the linen intended for it.
I think it looks cute. Maybe to wear around the house on a hot day? I do like it.
So nice to see you haven’t abandoned the sewing, Jessica! Life gets so busy when you work full time–hardly room to do anything but figure out what to eat and manage a shower. I agree about that funky collar, none in the back seems odd. The recent dresses are cute, though. Coincidentally, I am sewing up a smock type top out of Liberty Lawn that I cut out last spring. It is my first try at French seams, due to the fact that I have only a little Kenmore straight stitcher. I am imagining myself a petite atelier in Paris!
Aahh too bad! I must say though that it doesn’t look bad (at all!) in the pictures! But I know that if you don’t feel good in it, that’s probably not gonna cut it.
I hope you have more luck on your next make!
And 12 darts…Seriously!
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Thank you for your comments, I thought I was the only one having trouble with the puffy upper back. Too bad because I used some nice white on white polka dot good quality cotton. I will try to round off the back making it with cleavage in an attempt to save my blouse.
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