Pattern: Simplicity 1614
Fabric: Rayon Challis (ebay purchase)
I am seeing this high/low hem tops everywhere this season. I made one last year, which didn’t turn out so well. I didn’t like how much longer that top was in the back – I prefer the more gentle rounded hem of this pattern. I also think rayon challis is a much better choice, as it allows the pattern to drape naturally.
Because my torso is incredibly long, I haven’t found any hi-lo tanks in the stores that fit me. They all cut off in the front at precisely the widest part of my hips, and I don’t find that flattering on me. I knew I would have to lengthen this top, so I added 3 inches in cutting. I was worried that was too much, but it turned out to be just right!
I should probably mention that you won’t find this version of the top (rounded hem in with the front all one piece) in the pattern. This version is cut in stripes on the front, but I taped the pieces together in order to have only one seam (the bust line, which is on all versions.)
I was really excited to use my striped fabric – I’ve had it for ages, but it was too overwhelming for a dress. Imagine my dismay when I realized that the piece was actually vertical stripes! No matter, I cut on the cross grain. In fact, in order to get the stripes to line up I had to cut the yoke entirely off grain. Luckily, that doesn’t seem to have caused any issues, but I’m sure it would in a more fitted top.
I cut a straight size 8, and I did not make any sizing adjustments (except the length) but for one. I made the view with the single back strap, but after carefully assembling the straps I realized that the strap was really wide on me – several inches too wide! Because it was already sewn into the seams, I ended up just folding under part of the strap and securing it under the armholes. It’s invisible in this fabric! I took out 2.5″ inches overall. I probably have a narrow back:
I am exceedingly proud of the back seam matching – I can’t even see it, can you?
On the subject of the pattern – it was generally pretty good, though I had one issue. The pattern has you staystitch the neckline, but unfortunately the front neckline has a 3/8″ seam allowance, which isn’t marked. Be sure to keep in to a quarter inch or it will show and have to be removed!
I think the pattern wanted a hidden bias finish, but I wasn’t thrilled with that on the neck. The armholes have visible black binding, much neater imo!
In all, a very successful top. I’m not done with tops for the summer, but I need to pause to make dresses for a few events I have coming up… look for that soon!