crafts · Sewing

Coat sew-a-long: muslin

I had to take a break from my performance dress – on my way home from mass to finish it Sunday I managed to lock myself out of the house (with my husband in West Virginia!)  I took this as a bad sign, bought an emergency dress at Target and called it a day.  I’ll go back to the dress later.

I stayed home sick today (as did my husband; we are very pitiful.)  I managed to get my coat muslin for Butterick 5824 sewn, and I’m pleased.  I apologize for my sickness hair bun and kitty pajamas, but here you go:

Butterick 5824 muslin

I’m pulling down to simulate the weight of the skirt.  Without pulling, here is the back:
Butterick 5824 muslin

I’m not concerned about that single wrinkle, as I don’t think it will hold up to the skirt.  Do you think the collar is standing up too high?  I think it looks ok, and it may just be that I have narrow shoulders for the size of the collar.

I tried to make a traditional toile – I thread traced all the seam lines and used a similar weight fabric (this is an upholstery fabric I think – I got it in a bundle.)  I find it hard to muslin a coat with light cottons, as it just doesn’t look the same.

Other things that are helpful:

– Clip to the seamline at the waist.  Otherwise you aren’t getting an accurate idea of either the waist size or where it lies on your body.  This pattern hits right at the high natural waist, and I know the skirt will drag it town a tad.

– Draw the seamline where your collar actually ends.  Mine will end right at the shoulder, not hang over the edge the way it looks in the muslin.

– Kimono sleeves are always going to have that little bit of underarm wrinkle.  Don’t stress about it.  Personally, that’s made up for by the fact that I don’t have to set in a sleeve!

Here is the front:
Butterick 5824 muslin

The reason my collar looks uneven is that I sort of failed at sewing back there.  The pattern has a dart/pivot point combo that really threw me off – I sewed the dart first, and should have done the opposite, so it isn’t lying correctly.  I’ll fix it in the final coat.

I can also never figure out where to pin coat muslins in the front.  I thread traced the center fronts and matched them, so I figure that’s close enough.  I think the waist size is fine, although my husband seemed worried that it was too small (I have 3-4 inches ease.)  Sleeve length is slightly short – I’m planning to add 1/2 inch there (I have long arms!)

That’s that – once I get my alterations figured I’m going to cut my fabric and lining.  But I’m not sewing that collar on again until Gertie puts up her tutorial on that step – it’s the only tricky bit!