Pattern: Vogue 8634
Fabric: Rayon/lycra jersey, purchased at fabric.com
Notions: Stitch witchery
Notes: I seem to be on a roll for making tops right now! I chose this pattern based on the excellent reviews – it seems everyone has made one! I liked the raglan shoulders, and I thought the length would be flattering.
I chose a striped rayon jersey from fabric.com. It is perhaps a bit lightweight, but that gives the cowl a nice drape!
I only encountered one issue with the fabric – what to do with the hem? I like to leave knit hems raw wherever possible, due to the difficulty of getting a nice hem without rippling, but this one looked sad without a hem. I first hemmed it in a pretty standard way – I serged the lower edge, folded under an inch and topstitched. That didn’t look good – it was super ripply, and just not nice. I decided to resort to using stitch witchery (fusible tape that holds seams together.) I applied the tape, ironed it in place with a damp cloth, and ran two rows of top stitching on top, using my walking food for even feeding. It looks better, but I’m still not 100% on the hem. The weight of the adhesive inside the hem causes it to hang differently from the rest of the garment. I have regular weight Stitch Witchery – there is a light, and perhaps I should try that? I have also heard of using washaway stabilizer, but I was out. Any advice is welcome, as I have a few more light knits coming up, and I’d like to find a better hem solution!
I added 2 inches to the top in cutting, as I often have to lengthen tops (long torso here!) It ended up being unnecessary, so I removed it before hemming. I cut an XS in the shoulders and bust, blending to a medium at the bottom. I could have gone with a small – it’s slightly bigger than I think is intended by the pattern.
The pattern is highly recommended, with a few caveats. First, it is a raglan sleeve, which is not ideal for everyone. I love them, but I know they can be problematic. Second, I would consider removing the empire seam. I don’t think it does much for shaping, and it makes it harder to use a print (my stripe is so small that you can’t see it!) Finally, I would recommend a slightly heavier knit. Mine is a t-shirt type knit, which feels lovely and soft but lacks the drape that I would prefer at the bottom.
This made a nice outfit for dinner with my in-laws, if a bit more neutral/conservative than my usual. The pants silhouette is new for me – slim rather than straight/flared legs. I really like it, which surprises me a great deal! I can already think of several ways to use this top in a more exciting way – maybe I will come back with a few of those ideas later this week!