crafts · finished objects · Sewing

Vogue 8634

Pattern: Vogue 8634

Fabric: Rayon/lycra jersey, purchased at

Notions: Stitch witchery

Notes:  I seem to be on a roll for making tops right now!  I chose this pattern based on the excellent reviews – it seems everyone has made one!  I liked the raglan shoulders, and I thought the length would be flattering.

I chose a striped rayon jersey from  It is perhaps a bit lightweight, but that gives the cowl a nice drape!

I only encountered one issue with the fabric – what to do with the hem?  I like to leave knit hems raw wherever possible, due to the difficulty of getting a nice hem without rippling, but this one looked sad without a hem.  I first hemmed it in a pretty standard way – I serged the lower edge, folded under an inch and topstitched.  That didn’t look good – it was super ripply, and just not nice.  I decided to resort to using stitch witchery (fusible tape that holds seams together.) I applied the tape, ironed it in place with a damp cloth, and ran two rows of top stitching on top, using my walking food for even feeding.  It looks better, but I’m still not 100% on the hem.  The weight of the adhesive inside the hem causes it to hang differently from the rest of the garment.  I have regular weight Stitch Witchery – there is a light, and perhaps I should try that?  I have also heard of using washaway stabilizer, but I was out.  Any advice is welcome, as I have a few more light knits coming up, and I’d like to find a better hem solution!

I added 2 inches to the top in cutting, as I often have to lengthen tops (long torso here!)  It ended up being unnecessary, so I removed it before hemming.  I cut an XS in the shoulders and bust, blending to a medium at the bottom.  I could have gone with a small – it’s slightly bigger than I think is intended by the pattern.

The pattern is highly recommended, with a few caveats.  First, it is a raglan sleeve, which is not ideal for everyone.  I love them, but I know they can be problematic.  Second, I would consider removing the empire seam.  I don’t think it does much for shaping, and it makes it harder to use a print (my stripe is so small that you can’t see it!)  Finally, I would recommend a slightly heavier knit.  Mine is a t-shirt type knit, which feels lovely and soft but lacks the drape that I would prefer at the bottom.

This made a nice outfit for dinner with my in-laws, if a bit more neutral/conservative than my usual.  The pants silhouette is new for me – slim rather than straight/flared legs.  I really like it, which surprises me a great deal! I can already think of several ways to use this top in a more exciting way – maybe I will come back with a few of those ideas later this week!




12 thoughts on “Vogue 8634

  1. I’ve made two of these, but like your version even better than both of mine! lol. I may dig this out again and try it with a striped fabric. Thanks for the inspiration.

  2. I did a similar thing with my hem when I made this. I think I used a strip of knit fusible interfacing and even that ended up feeling a little stiff.

    The cowl on yours is sitting really nicely. I must make this one again some time.

  3. Lovely top! I usually hem my knits with two lines of very narrow zigzag. It looks like straight stitches to the casual observer but still has stretch. It also seems to eliminate the ripples you can get with straight stitches.

  4. For hemming on knits, I use a twin needle made for jersey knits. It makes two parallel rows of stitching on the top, and the underside looks like zig zag.

  5. Love your outfit! It looks pulled-together, but comfortable.

    Have you tried sewing the hem with a piece of tissue paper fed through with the fabric. It keeps it from stretching, and then you rip the tissue paper off after it’s done.

  6. I’m with Sandy on this one. I started using a twin needle for hemming all of my knit projects. I serge the edge, fold it over and twin needle on the top (you can feel where the edge is underneath).

  7. This turned out really nice, even more so because you look so happy with it. 🙂

    I second the twin needle for stretch knits, but with a couple of hints/tips to make it work nicer. Use strips of fusible knit interfacing for the hem, turn your tension to one (or as low as you need to keep it from tunneling), and steam/press it when you’re done stitching to help flatten it out and get it back down to size. It sounds much more complicated and tedious than it really is.

  8. Great top! I love that stripe.

    For hemming knits, I’d also recommend a twin needle (I like Wooly Nylon in the bobbin), and also a generous amount of spray starch. The starch seems to make the biggest difference for me.

  9. Fantastic outfit. I do have a coverstitch on my serger but often I use Steam-A-Seam lite in 1/4 or 1/2 ‘ widths. You don’t even need to bother stitching over it. Washes just fine and stretches with the fabric. i tell all my non-sewing machine owning friends to use it for hemming their too long t shirts.

  10. It looks fantastic! I love it on you. I too have had the same problem with knit hems and it drives me crazy! Let us all know if you find out a new way to try.

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