Pattern: McCall’s 6277

Fabric: ITY knit from fabric.com, 2 yards

Notions: thread, clear elastic (in shoulder seams for reinforcement)

Notes: I bought this Laura Ashley patter as soon as it was released, but then I was stymied by what to make it from.  I knew I wanted a nice drape for the cape sleeves.  I almost used a rayon challis, but then I bought a ton of knits from fabric.com and thought “why not?”  I’m really happy with my decision – the dress is light and drapey, exactly as I pictured it in my head!  It isn’t too much of a sack (though I guess it is without the belt) which was my biggest worry with the pattern.

Construction was straightforward, particularly if you’ve ever made a dress with ruffles set into the princess seams (Simplicity 2360, now out of print, is similar, but with smaller ruffles.)  I did not line the dress (I pretty much don’t line anything unless I absolutely have to.)  I chose to do a narrow hem on the neckline and the sleeves (see my tutorial.)  I didn’t bother to finish the armholes – they are entirely hidden by the sleeves, and jersey doesn’t fray.

I cut the higher neckline with the shorter sleeves.  I really like the length of these sleeves on me.  I am 5’8″ and the longer ruffles would have made my arms look like I didn’t have elbows.  If you are shorter than me, or have short arms (mine are long) this will be too long on you.  I recommend just cutting the sleeves down to whatever length makes them hit where mine do – it’s a simple pattern piece.  The length you see is the unhemmed length of the dress.  I don’t always hem jersey, though in this case I may go back and add one (this ITY tended to curl a bit, and you can see that a little on the hemline.)

About the fabric: I love ITY jerseys.  I know not everyone does, but I find them pretty easy to sew with.  This one, however, was not what I would really call ITY.  It has a lighter and silkier texture.   Most of the ITYs I own have 4% lycra, but this one has 8%.  My machine didn’t love sewing it, but I managed with a lengthened zigzag stitch.  Hemming the sleeves was done with a straight stitch for neatness, and because they don’t stretch.  I used a walking foot the entire time, as I always recommend with knits.  Be aware that not all the ITYs at fabric.com are the same – they are all different types, from heavy to light.  I didn’t receive any that I didn’t like, but don’t expect them to all be the same!

I am of the opinion that these sorts of belted sack dresses work best in either a knit or a lightweight silk.  I have several others that I’m planning (Cynthia Rowley has many dresses of the belted sack variety.)  I highly recommend this pattern, with the caveat that you should watch the sleeve length.  I’m very happy with how mine turned out!

Pattern: Vogue 1179, a DKNY design

Fabric: ITY Jersey from fabric.com (sold out) 2 yards

Notes:

I decided to make this dress on a whim, inspired by Carolyn’s beautiful version.  I think this may be the fastest dress pattern I’ve made – I spent maybe 2 hours on it yesterday before going out (including cutting) and then perhaps an hour this afternoon after church!  The pattern consists of only three pieces – front, back, and cowl neck.

I was really nervous about how this would look on me – I typically avoid dresses without some sort of a waist seam, as I like waist definition as a rule.  In fact, my wadder last week (McCalls 6347, which I do not recommend at all) failed because it was semi fitted and had no waist seam.  It just looked dumpy on me.  This dress though?  I’m thrilled with it!  I cut a size 6 in the shoulders and upper chest, and blended to an 8 from the waist down.    I would ordinarily cut a larger size (between a 10 and 12 usually) but I wanted to make sure it wasn’t too overwhelming, and the measurements  on the pattern checked out.

This dress is even pretty flattering from the side and back (for a dress that is essentially a pleated sack!)  The only thing I might caution is to watch out for the pleats if you are on the large busted size – the dress pretty much hangs down from them, and I had to make sure to wear a non padded bra or it looked odd.

I did not use the instructions, as I didn’t need them, but I do know that I constructed the cowl differently.  I basted the cowl WS together, and then sewed both sides of the cowl to the neckline.  I felt no need to hide that seam, as the instructions ask, because you can’t see it anyway.  I also changed the armholes – the instructions called for putting clear elastic in them to stabilize, but I just did a baby hem.  My knit is lightweight, so it worked out.

This fabric was part of a batch of ITY knits I bought from fabric.com earlier this year.  I’ve almost used them up – it’s time to get more!  I really love ITY knits, though the quality varies.  My machine sews them well, and they have a lovely drape that you don’t always get from cotton or rayon knits.  This particular piece of fabric has a crazy print, so I’m glad I was able to find a pattern that doesn’t require breaking the print in half.  In fact, I totally recommend this pattern for this sort of fabric.

I took exactly the hem called for.  Four inches seems like an awfully deep hem, but it helps to control the volume on the bottom of the dress.  I topstitched the hem down with a single row of stitching, and you really don’t notice it in this print at all.

I would definitely make this dress again, and I recommend the pattern.  Sometimes it’s nice to try something new!  One thing I’m working on right now is making clothes that are practical for me.  I find that I wear my knit dresses more often than anything else.  I have to dress up all the time, but I usually am singing or playing when that happens – and either way I need to be able to breathe and move!    I’m actually almost out of knits, so I’m planning an order!

Pattern: Simplicity 2413

Fabric: pale blue chambray, from the Lisette fabric collection at Joann’s

Notes:

I am now resorting to blurry cell-phone photos.  I promise to take some better photos once I buy a new camera, but I wanted to review this pattern while I could still remember what I did!  I had previously the skirt from view A of this pattern, which I like quite a bit.  This skirt uses the same pocket pieces, but all the others are different (my skirt has no pockets.)  I was interested in the high waist, and what looked like an easy project.

I remembered measuring the waistband for this skirt on my first make and thinking it must be wrong.  There are no waist measurements printed, a serious oversight in a skirt pattern!  I usually make a size 10 for the waist of a garment, occasionally a 12 (I don’t like a binding waistband.)  On this skirt I actually had to add length to the band, giving me around a size 14.  So be aware – the waist on this thing runs smaller than your average pattern!  It’s easy enough to fix, as the band is just a rectangle.  The other view of the pattern had pretty normal sizing, so I don’t know what was up with that.

I did not make the waist stay, and I didn’t interface.  This fabric is pretty non-stretchy, and with the band folded and slipstitched in place it’s got plenty of weight.  I trimmed 4 inches off the hemline.  I wanted to like the longer length, but I found that the chambray didn’t drape well.  In addition, I started worrying about a chambray skirt midway through – there are several local religious groups that seem to call for ladies wearing long chambray skirts, and I didn’t want anyone to ask questions, as when you wear skirts everyday you are already suspect.  I’m pretty sure that at this length I’m safe!

Overall I am pleased.  Here are my pros and cons:

Pros:

-I like the general silhouette

-the length works with heels or flats

-Should match lots of different colors.

Cons:

–Weird sizing

– the directions were rather overly complicated – I didn’t use them.

This project took two days, from cutting to wearing.  It was very quick, but then I didn’t use the pockets, and I made up the waist treatment on my own.  Recommended for those who enjoy a high waistline!