4 days until we leave, and I am in full on packing terror.  I may not have mentioned this before, but I have a terrible phobia of flying – more than once I have had full-on panic attacks in airports.  I now travel armed with a prescription for Xanax, which does help somewhat (I’m still scared, but I can’t quite get up the energy to hyperventilate.)  This doesn’t really help my pre-trip anxiety though, so I’m trying to focus on packing rather than the 12 hours I will be spending on various planes this week.  I have been sewing a lot of knit dresses, and several of them will be making the trip with me!  First up:  another version of Simplicity 2443.

Pattern: Simplicity 2443

Fabric: 2 yards of ponte knit from Fashionista fabric (really lovely quality!) Looks to be sold out, but she has several other pretty colors.

Notes: I made this dress last summer (here) and it has been one of my most worn garments!  I loved this cobalt blue ponte, but I couldn’t decide on a pattern.  As I was preparing for my trip, I thought “why not make another?”  I shortened the straps by one inch to raise the waistline to my natural waist (I am pretty short waisted.)  I did not install the zipper, and I didn’t interface anything – I don’t see the need unless you were to use a flimsy knit (which I wouldn’t recommend for this pattern.)

Even at a second try, sewing on the straps was still a bit of a nightmare.  I had to redo only one corner, and it’s not as stretched out as the last one.  My advice?  Do your stay stitching with a straight stitch, set to a short stitch length (I used 1.7 mm)  Pin and sew with the body of the dress facing up.  Clip only where necessary, in the body of the dress only – too many clips, and it becomes challenging to catch all those edges.  Go slow, and don’t worry if you have to redo one – I had  a spot where the whole fabric edge didn’t catch, so I had to rip and redo!  If you get fabric wrinkles when sewing, try stopping with the needle down, lifting the foot, and shifting the excess fabric behind the needle, similar to what you have to do when sewing a v neckline.   If it comes out slightly stretched (and it will, seriously) don’t worry – you can’t see that when it’s being worn.

I added a machine sewn hem.  I used the recommended slip stitch on the last dress, and it proved puckery and prone to coming undone.  I also redid the original dress’s hem with a machine hem at the same time.  Much better!  This is the third garment made from this pattern (I also made the jacket) and it’s one of the favorite patterns of my short sewing career!

Moving on, I’ve been considering my packing options.  I am really trying not to overpack, but it’s hard – I don’t really wear pants, so I’m bringing mostly dresses.  The weather looks to be similar to ours right now – upper 50s and chances of rain.  So I’m packing all short sleeved dresses, with cardigans to go over top (I am bringing a coat as well… I am very cold natured.)

The dresses are (from right to left) Simplicity 2443(x2), Vogue 8667,  Simplicity 2360, Vogue 1224, Vogue 1209, Vogue 8685, and the only dress not made by me (but blogged here.)

Cardigans are (from left:) Simplicity 2443, Jalie Pleated cardigan, Simplicity 2417, and two RTW sweaters, from Jones NY and Rachel Roy.

Shoes (from left:) Cole Haan air flats, Sofft mary janes, Alfani flat boots.  All three pairs are walkable.

I chose the dresses for ease of packing – all except Simplicity 2360 are knit, and after taking the photo I decided that one is getting cut.  They are also comfortable for travel, and easy enough to move in.  I don’t travel in anything uncomfortable.  Wrinkling should be minimal, although the ponte dresses will wrinkle if given the chance.  I own a travel steamer, but I doubt I will be taking it along – I think most of the hotels we are staying at have irons.  I’m not planning on doing any laundry beyond washing tights in the sink.  All of these items roll and pack pretty small – I may be able to get away with a small suitcase, so long as I wear the boots and my coat on the plane.  I will be taking leggings and tights, and several of these dresses are short enough to function as tunics if necessary. Both the dresses from 2243 as well as the Vogue Rachel Comey dress will work for both daytime and going out, with different shoes and accessories.   I’m also bringing my concert dress.  I finally found a new one!

It’s an ITY knit, so no wrinkles.  I will be wearing this with the Jalie pleated cardigan over top, making it Me-made-March acceptable!  And my new glasses came in – I love them!  Conventional wisdom says that if you have bad eyes (my left eye is -9.75, right is -7) you should use small glasses, or so my eye doctor tells me.  I could never wear my old pair for very long – I felt constantly seasick, and I could always see the edges of my vision, even when looking straight ahead (the edges of lenses distort, so this is probably the reason for my poor depth perception.)  I can see great out of these- so much better.  And I don’t feel like my eyes look so teeny!  The only complaint I have is that they do tend to slide a bit on my nose, but I think I have to accept that – I have yet to own a pair of glasses that didn’t, I just have a really tiny bridge.

Back to packing… I have lots more to do, and an extremely busy week.  I have rehearsal or a concert every night before we leave!

Pattern: Vogue 8380

Fabric: 2 yards of stretch cotton sateen from Sawyer Brook fabrics

Notes:

It’s a bit girly, no?  I don’t think I would describe my style as girly per se, but sometimes you are just in the mood!  This was a super easy pattern.  I made it because I have seen it looking fabulous on many different ladies, and I was not disappointed!  The fabric is a cotton sateen.  It is perhaps a wee bit heavy for the pattern – I think it would drape better in a nice lawn or voile, though then you would have to line it.  This is a straight size 8.  I made no real alterations, not even the length – as drafted, with the prescribed hem, it is exactly knee length on me.  That’s where I prefer a summer dress to fall – I don’t like to show too much leg, as it limits the places I can wear the dress without tights.  I had a heck of a time getting the dress to photograph!

This photo is true to color, but a bit washed out in the details.  Imagine the dress being somewhere between the two photos.  The empire band has to fit pretty tightly for the dress to hang right.  After my fitting mishap (which involved me having to use a seam ripper to get out of the dress) I didn’t actually make any alterations – I just sewed in the zipper.  It fits fine, but I cannot zip myself into the dress because there is no ease – it requires a helper.  Once zipped the fit is perfect (this is why I prefer a back zip – side zippers are so picky!)

If I made this dress again, I might cut down the width of the straps.  They must be folded to go through the casing, and that seems a bit bulky to me.  Other than that, this dress was easy and flattering.  Now we just have to get some warm weather for me to wear it!

Pattern: Vogue 1225, a Tracy Reese design

Fabric: 3.5 yards of poly/lycra knit, from ebay seller BestOnlineFabrics

Notions: Elastic

Shoes: Steve Madden

Notes: I have now officially become one of those people who wear spring clothes at the first hint of warmth.  It almost got to 60 today – it was glorious!  These shoes are hideously uncomfortable.  I don’t like Steve Madden shoes at all.  You would think flats couldn’t be that bad, but somehow these are.  But!  They match the dress, so I had to wear them.  And yes, I’m still trying out the glasses (they will go back tomorrow.)  These are the Coltons.

Since I had such good luck with the last Tracy Reese design I sewed, I decided to whip this one up this weekend.  I made a size 8, but a six would have been better if it were offered.  I usually take an 8 in vogue patterns, so this might run just a touch big.  The Vogue website claims this dress is easy, but I would really question that!  There is a ton of gathering involved in this dress, including five tedious rows on each shoulder (that I’m still not certain if I should remove or not… I’m leaning towards not.)  Other techniques needed for this dress: baby hemming, making casings and using elastic, and an awful lot of markings for a knit. Getting the front facing to sit well was also challenging.  The pattern called for pressing in 1/4″ on each side of the tie, and then edgestitching it closed.  Um… on a knit?  I don’t think so.  I just sewed it the way you normally would a tie, and then turned it right side out with a skewer (I must get one of those tube turner sets!)

As you can see, there is a lot of skirt in this dress.  The pattern called for making a petticoat (crinoline) and sewing it into the dress.  I couldn’t see doing that.  If I want a full skirt, I will use a separate crinoline. I don’t go to that trouble for one dress (this is also why I wear slips rather than line most things.)  This skirt is actually larger than a circle, I think.  I like the way it looks without the crinoline – not as poofy as the envelope photo.  Please note that the waist seam has 7/8″ seam allowances.   I concentrated the skirt gathers in the front (in the pattern they go towards the sides a bit more) to make up for the lack of crinoline.

The back neck ties are not elasticized, and they do not go around to the front.  It’s not clear from the pattern photo (or mine, probably!) but there is an open slit under the ties.  It does not show a bra strap.  However, even with the ties fully tightened, I felt that I needed to wear a camisole under the dress for front coverage.  You could easily add a little modesty panel there to avoid the camisole, but I like how it looks this way.

I haven’t hemmed the bottom edge – it will need a narrow hem, and I’m not looking forward to that.  I want to make sure it doesn’t stretch significantly before I hem it.  The skirt is quite heavy, but I think the thick elastic in the waist holds it up well.  The waist sits a bit high on me (and I am short waisted) so you may wish to test that!

I am very pleased with this project.  I can’t believe I nearly gave up on it – you can’t even see the place I was upset about the pattern match (it’s at center back, should you wish to check.)  The pattern is recommended, but be aware that some of the instructions won’t work for a poly knit (there is a lot of “press this amount under” going on, and that doesn’t work.)  You may also wish to adjust the front bustline, as it is quite low.  Other than that, it’s an easy, cool spring dress.  I wore it all day today, and it was so comfortable!

Pattern: Vogue 1224, a Tracy Reese design

Fabric: 2 yards ITY knit from Joann’s

Notions: 1 package 3/8″ elastic

No, I didn’t wear this dress to watch the superbowl – I sewed it up while my husband and his friend were watching the game!  I am so not a sports fan (and neither is my husband, but for some reason he always watches that one game – I think it’s an excuse for party food!)  I had cut it the night before, in anticipation of sewing during the game, so actual sewing time was maybe 2.5 hours (I did take some breaks in there!)  I recommend this dress for a quick sew – it’s a lot of payoff for an easy pattern!

This was one of my favorites of the new collection.  I’m currently sewing things to take with me on my trip abroad (more on that in a later post) so I’m making a lot of knits, which travel well!   I may try to get in the other new Tracy Reese pattern in the next few weeks – I’ve got my fabric ready!

I cut a straight size 8 from my pattern, but then looked at the hip measurements and decided I didn’t want a tight skirt.  So when I cut the actual fabric I added 2.5″ in the skirt, giving me 2 inches of ease.  I expected this to give me problems when sewing it to the bodice, but it actually fit fine.   You can see above where a skirt 2 inches smaller would have been tight.  The bodice pattern pieces look pretty strange, but I followed the directions and they came out fine!  I used sulky tear away stabilizer to make the single buttonhole (the neck cord goes through this.)  I hate making buttonholes on a knit, but I find that with the stabilizer it’s not a problem.

I did not line the skirt, as called for by the pattern.  Because of this, I decided to use the seam allowance between the skirt and bodice to make my elastic casing, rather than attaching a separate piece.  That worked out fine.   I lost my loop turner, so I had to improvise a way to turn out the cords.  I ended up wrapping the blunt end of a skewer in duct tape (to avoid snags) and using it to push out the tube.  I did sew my cord closed at the exposed end – the instructions never said to, but I thought it would look unfinished!  I chose not to add the cord stoppers, and just knotted the cords.

I really like this dress – it’s easy to make and easy to wear!  I only have one complaint – the length of the skirt.  I know I should have measured it, but I almost never have to add length to a pattern.  The length in the photos is the unhemmed length – seriously!  I’m treating it a bit more like a tunic, and wearing it over leggings.  It’s bad because, with the elastic waistband, it tends to creep up while you wear it.  If I make another I will add some length, a good three inches!  I guess I should start watching the length of skirts!

Here is how I wore it today:

I got the nicest compliment when I wore it to rehearsal – one of my friends said “You always cheer me up because your clothes are so colorful and happy!” (I’m paraphrasing, but that’s the idea!)  I sometimes get positive comments on my clothes, but I more often get a sort of suspicious “Why are you always so dressed up?” so positive is good!

Pattern: Vogue 8631, view A

Fabric: 3 yards of rayon poplin, from the Van Gogh collection by Free Spirit.  I got my fabric from Phat Fabrics, on sale here.

Notions etc: White Grosgrain ribbon, one hook and eye

Notes: I fell in love with this fabric the moment I saw it.  Apparently, the 80s were not enough to kill my love for any and all things spatter painted!  I used to have an entire outfit made of spatter painted denim – skirt, shirt, and matching purse.  Oh yeah, I was pretty cool.  I hadn’t heard about this fabric, but it’s part of an entire collection of rayon prints released by Free Spirit last year.  It’s listed as rayon poplin, but it feels like rayon challis to me.  It’s lightweight, but not see through.  I highly recommend it, if you share my obsession with randomly painted bits of fabric.

The envelope photo for this pattern isn’t exactly wonderful, but after seeing this version, I knew I had to make one.  This is a wrap dress, but it’s a slightly unusual one.  I like the rounded front hems – it’s very similar to this dress by Diane Von Furstenberg.  The dress doesn’t come with a belt pattern, but I knew that in order for it to flatter my body type, I would need some sort of waist cinching!  I decided to make the obi belt from Kwik Sew 3758.  I’ve made it before, and it’s one of my most worn accessories!  This time I folded 1″ out of the center waist before cutting.  It was a bit too large for me before.  I used muslin as a sew-in interfacing, and the belt is structured without being too stiff.  I used fusible interfacing on my last belt, and it’s bubbling terribly!

Since I added a belt, I didn’t have enough fabric to make the required bias binding.  The pattern calls for using bias binding around the sleeve hems and the entire outer edge of the dress (technically, the dress tells you to buy readymade bias.)  I thought the bias would add too much weight to the fabric.  Instead, I serged around all the edges and made a baby hem around the whole outside edge (as in my tutorial here.)  It’s unobtrusive, and it doesn’t make the front edges floppy.

Other alterations: I used a ribbon for the inside ties, as I was short on fabric.  It’s a perfectly workable solution, and probably easier than turning out the ties.  The pattern also calls for a hook/eye closure on the outside of the wrap.  Since I’m using a belt over it, that was fine, but if I wanted to wear the dress on its own I would change that – it feels rather unsecure to me!

A comment on sizing: this dress runs big!  I cut an 8 on top, 10 on the bottom (my usual Vogue size,) but ended up taking it in by an inch all over.  I think it could come in even more, but with the belt it’s fine.  It also runs large in the chest and shoulders – I probably needed to do a small bust adjustment, which is unusual for me (I am a B cup, and most patterns are drafted for a B.)  The armholes are rather deep, and will expose a bit of whatever you wear underneath.  For that reason, I recommend planning to wear a slip or slip dress underneath this dress.  I’m wearing a vintage slip, but I’m planning to get a nude colored modern slip to wear under the dress – all my vintage slips are too high cut in the chest.  There is a potential for wardrobe malfunction otherwise – the v neck is quite deep!

This dress  will be perfect when Spring finally decides to put in an appearance!  I recommend the pattern – it’s very easy (only 4 pieces) and gives a nice result.  If you are petite you may wish to adjust the blousiness of the bodice and the length.  I think mine is actually very similar to the new Vogue Donna Karan dress.  I’m planning to make that one as well, out of a solid colored sateen (in emerald green!)  I’m a big fan of this silhouette.  I fought it at first, but I think I’m rather glad that styles with more volume are making a comeback.  As with everything else, it’s all in the proportions!