One of my Christmas presents this year was a copy of Adobe Photoshop, so you can expect an overabundance of collages for awhile! I bought this cotton sateen print from Eliot Berman fabrics last spring – it’s from J. Crew, and I believe they used it for a pencil skirt. I’ve been going back and forth on dress patterns for ages! I was feeling a full skirt, because the fabric has a certain weighty drape that I think will be nice for a winter dress. I considered Vogue 8615, but I was worried about fitting the sleeves. I’ve seen some nice versions of this pattern, and since it’s a Project Runway pattern it has lots of options. I was attracted to the rolled collar (I like the version with the cape collar too, but that’s more for a summer dress) and the interesting darts. I cut a muslin in a straight size ten, and here are the results:
Hmm… not bad. At first I wasn’t sure about the collar, but I think I like it. There is a little extra fabric on the upper chest that I need to get rid of, but the wrinkles radiating from the collar are caused by shodding sewing. The darts look good, and end in the right place. Let’s see the back:
I need a little more room around the waist. It’s also a little big around the upper back – a common problem for me, as I have unusually erect posture.
First I’m going to let out the waist just a bit – no more than 1/2 inch, because I want it to be nice and fitted. It isn’t uncomfortable now, but I don’t want the wrinkles from tightness. I’m also going to go ahead and clip to the seamline on the waist, as that can make a difference to the fit. I will do the same to the armholes, and see how that affects the shoulders (I was in a hurry, and I was originally planning on sleeves, so I didn’t bother the first time!) I don’t care for the sleeves on this pattern, so I’m going sleeveless. I would probably always wear it with a cardigan anyway, so that’s no big loss!
I will do a second muslin if I have to make major chest adjustments. I want to do a good job fitting this, because I have hopes of making the cape collar version for summer. Here’s hoping I have some time to sew this week – the first week back from holidays is always the worst!