crafts · Sewing

Oops, I spoke too soon…

on the whole “not dead yet” thing.  When I had dental work done, the dentist prescribed Clindamycin, an antibioic, and I am having a bad reaction to it (don’t worry, I won’t go into details.)  I canceled my lessons today, which I hate to do (I don’t get sick days) but I have to remind myself to not run myself into the ground – better to take a day off and feel better, than to work through it and end up out for weeks!

I have been working on my sundress.  I made a muslin of the bodice, and I have to say that the sizing is a little strange.  I took a size 6 in the bust – smaller than usual for me – but I had to cut almost 2 sizes bigger in the waist!  Hopefully it will fit – I am still nervous about the waist size.  Of course, I can always sew that part with a smaller seam allowance if I have to.  It took me quite awhile to get started because I was considering my options on 2 points – the underlining and the buttonholes.  I’ve decided to do regular buttonholes rather than bound.  The underlining, I am happy to say, is much easier now that I’ve used a tip I found  here.

I’m using silk organza, which gives a lovely body to my rather thin fabric (I suspect it was meant to be sheets.)  But silk organza is very hard to cut and sew evenly, as it shifts around like crazy.  This method solves that.  Basically, you cut a block of the organza, big enough for your pattern piece.  Lay the cut fabric piece face up on the organza, and then pin everywhere (a crazy amount of pins, as it says in the link.)

Finally, pin around the edges and hand baste.  Hand basting is important for underlining, because it will wrinkle and shift if you try to machine baste, even with a walking foot.  I use a new piece of thread for every edge, and I use colored embroidery floss because it’s easier to remove later.  Finally, cut around the piece with a rotary cutter and remove the pins.

I also baste through the center of darts, so that the layers don’t shift when sewing them.  And no, I won’t be winning any awards for my even basting skills, but it works well enough!

Cutting the organza after it’s sewn does save time, and it certainly saves me frustration!  I did not attempt to match the pattern on the dress, except for making sure that the center back matches.  It has a very large repeat, and I would have driven myself crazy!  I’ve also shortened the dress by 7 inches, making it hopefully right at my knees.  I still have quite a bit of underlining to do before I even get to the actual dress sewing, but I’m hoping it will all be worth it!

10 thoughts on “Oops, I spoke too soon…

  1. Wow, girl, you have some patience. That method looks great, but also A LOT of work! I’ll bet it pays off in the end, though. Hope you feel better soon.

  2. Agree with Amanda, all that underlining takes a lot of patience. I like your method of applying it though, rather than cutting it out separately, makes so much sense! Your finished dress will be beautiful, can’t wait to see it. Get well soon!

  3. Lovely! I am getting ready to cut out a dress to wear to an engagement party (out of some lovely sari silk) and am going to use this idea!

    Hope you feel better soon…

  4. I use a spray adhesive to keep the layers together. They slightly stick and it easily washes out. Pins end up on my floor and I worry about our dog getting them in her paws. I can’t wait to see your dress, btw.

    1. Good tip on the spray adhesive – I have some of the 505 quilt spray, but I hate how it smells so I never use it. I’ll have to try it out for underlining sometime!

  5. Oh! I just adore your choice of fabric. There really is nothing better than a big, bold floral print, especially for a summer dress! The shops are full of them here at the moment! Can’t wait to see it when it’s done!

    M xx

  6. Basting along the centre of the dart! That’s a great tip, thank you so much! You saved me lots of time and work fiddling around with the darts (in both outer and lining fabric) that I just wasn’t looking forward to at all. Thank you again!
    I hope things are getting lots better with your teeth, all the best.

  7. I actually used this method on a dress last week after reading this post. It worked so well! Thanks for the tip. 🙂

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